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Mar 26

“อ้อ..แล้วก็อย่าลืม ค่ำคืนนื้ทุกท่างอาจจะมีทอระสับขึ้นไปหา ก็ไม่ต้องแปลกใจ ถ้าเป็นผู้หญิงรับสาย เค้าก็จะรีบวางสายเลย แต่ถ้าเป็นอาเฮียรับ นั่นละเตรียมคำตอบให้เธอดีๆจำได้หรือปล่าว เหย้า ปู๋เหย้า ไม่ใช่ เยี่ยว ไม่เยี่ยว นะ55555”

.

              

 

                

 

               ฉวนโจว…

 

               เมืองท่าใหญ่ทางตะวันออกเฉียงใต้ของมณฑลฝูเจี้ยน ตั้งอยู่ฝั่งเหนือของแม่น้ำจิ้นเจียงตอนล่าง มีชื่อเรียก ทั้งจัวจิ๋ว จะจิ๋ว บางครั้งก็นิยมเรียก “หลี่เฉิง” ซึ่งแปลว่า เมืองปลาไนหรือปลาหลีฮื้อ

 

              ผมนั่งอ่านทบทวนประวัติของเมืองในรถขณะที่แล่นเข้าสู่ฉวนโจว ที่ที่ต้องใช้ชีวิตที่นี่ 2 คืน

 

              ฉวนโจว ถ้าย้อนไปอีก ไปถึงสมัยราชวงศ์ถังช่วงที่ตั้งเมือง(พ.ศ.1254)  แล้วลองหลับตานึกภาพตามเส้นทางสายไหมทางทะเลเมืองนี้คงคึกคักหน้าดู…ไม่เช่นนั้นมาร์โคโปโลคงไม่ยกย่องว่า เป็นเมืองท่าที่ใหญ่ที่สุดแห่งหนึ่งของโลก สมัยราชวงศ์ซ่งเคยมาตั้งกองบัญชาการท่าเรือใหญ่ที่เมืองนี้ จนกลายเป็นศูนย์กลางการค้าทางทะเล   และ สมัยราชวงศ์หมิงก็รุ่งเรืองมากจนถือเป็นหนึ่งในหกมหานครใหญ่ของจีน

 

              ดังนั้น ลักษณะบ้านเรือนที่มองเห็นจึงมีร่องรอยของอารยธรรมโบราณผสมผสานระหว่างใหม่และเก่า และ ระหว่างจีนแท้กับวัฒนธรรมของต่างชาติ หลากศาสนาทั้งฮินดู อิสลาม พุทธ เต๋า ขงจื้อ และ แม้แต่ “ลัทธมณี” ซึ่งยังมีวัดเหลืออยู่เพียงแห่งเดียวในโลกที่เมืองฉวนโจวนี้

 

              จากประวัติศาสตร์ของเมือง  ผมสะกดอาการละลานภายในหัวสมองเอาไว้ การมีโอกาสมาท่องเที่ยวเมืองเช่นนี้นับเป็นเรื่องที่หายากยิ่ง และ ยิ่งบอกว่า ฉวนโจว ยังเป็นมาตุภูมิของจีนโพ้นทะเลทั่วโลก เพราะ ชาวเมืองฉวนโจวอพยพไปตั้งรกรากในเอเชียอาคเนย์และประเทศต่างๆ นั้นยิ่งรู้สึกใกล้ตัวเป็นอย่างยิ่ง

 

               ไม่แน่ว่า…พี่น้องที่มีเชื้อสายจีนหลายๆคนรวมถึงญาติที่ผมรู้จักอาจเป็นหนึ่งในคนที่อพยพไปจากที่นี่แล้วไปตั้งรกรากที่ไทย  เวลาไม่ว่าจะผ่านไปกี่ปี กี่ร้อยปี หากนับญาติกันไปมา..โอ อาจเป็นเครือญาติเดียวกัน

 

                “ผมยังเคยเลยนะ รู้จักญาติที่สืบทอดกันมาเป็นพันปี” ผมจำคำของอาจารย์ผู้เชี่ยวชาญเรื่องจีนที่เล่าให้ฟังที่สนามบินได้ดีว่า คนจีนจะมีบันทึกของตระกูลเพื่อการสืบทอด-นับญาติกันไว้เสมอ ดังนั้นไม่ว่าจะเวลานานผ่านไปแค่ไหนก็สามารถตรวจสอบได้จาก “แฟมิลี่ ทรี” ได้

 

                สถานที่ต่างๆ ศิริวรรณเล่ายั่วสะกิดความสนใจผมไว้ก่อนเพราะเราเสียเวลาที่สนามบินไปพอสมควร เมื่อกระเป๋าเดินทางของใครบางคนในคณะหายไป โปรแกรมต่างๆจึงยกยอดไว้สำหรับวันรุ่งขึ้น…

 

                                            —**—

 

                        

                

                พลบค่ำ…

 

                 ก่อนเข้าเช็คอินที่โรงแรมหัวเฉียวที่ชื่อเหมือนโรงพยาบาลและมหาวิทยาลัยที่บ้านเรา ไกด์สาวพาเราไปทานอาหารที่ใจกลางเมืองก่อน อาหารของเมืองนี้รสชาติกลางๆ ไม่เลี่ยน ไม่มัน ไม่เค็ม ไม่เผ็ด เหมือนที่เสฉวน อาจเพราะหิว หรือ ฤทธิ์ขอวเบียร์ แต่ผมคิดว่าเป็นผลมาจากอย่างหลังมากกว่าทำให้ ผมจัดการอาหารในปริมาณที่มากกว่าปกติหลายเท่านัก

 

                 แม้จะไม่มีเวลาพิรี้พิไรมากนักกระนั้นหลังอาหารผมก็มีเวลาเตร็ดเตร่หน้าภัตตาคารเพื่อสัมผัสกับสายลมหนาว และ…สายเดี่ยว เอ๊ย! บรรดาผู้คนที่เดินถนนไปมา ผู้คนยามราตรีในวันหยุดมีประปราย  ส่วนใหญ่เป็นวัยรุ่นหนุ่มสาวที่เริ่มออกมาเดินเล่น

 

                “รู้สึกมั้ยว่า พวกเราดูสูงใหญ่ รูปร่างดีไปเลยนะ” ผมเปรยกับน้องร่วมคณะที่ออกมายืนเป็นเพื่อนรับลมที่หน้าภัตตาคารด้วยกัน

 

                 เขาพยักหน้าเป็นเชิงเห็นด้วย เพราะ กว่าร้อยละ 90 ของเด็กวัยรุ่นเหล่านั้นพกพาไซส์เล็กฉบับกระเป๋าผ่านสายตาเราไปทั้งนั้น

 

                 ผมไม่แปลกใจนักเพราะก่อนหน้านั้น ศิริวรรณ บอกเล่าให้ฟังตั้งแต่บนรถแล้วว่า…  “ผู้หญิงเมืองนี้ จะยังแต่งตัวไม่เก่งเหมือนที่อื่นๆของจีน แล้วรูปร่างก็ไม่สูงใหญ่เหมือนแถบเหนือ ผิวไม่ขาวนวลสวยเหมือนสาวเสฉวน ”

 

                  ผมไม่คิดว่า นั่นจะทำให้ผู้หญิงฉวนโจวจะหมดเสน่ห์  บางทีผู้ชายหลายคนก็ชอบผู้หญิงตัวเล็กๆ เพราะ ธรรมชาติมักชดเชยความน่ารักให้พวกเธอมาเต็มพิกัด   ไม่ต้องแต่งตัวมากมายแต่หากเลือกเสื้อผ้าให้เหมาะสมด้วยแบบฉบับของตนเอง ผมก็ว่าเพียงพอแล้วที่จะสะกดสายตาชายซึ่งก็รวมผมเข้าไปด้วยหนึ่งคนละ

 

                                             —***—

 

                  

                 

                ราตรียังอีกยาวไกล…

 

                 ผมวางสัมภาระ ตรงรี่รูดม่าน เปิดบานหน้าต่างห้องของโรงแรมก่อนทำสิ่งอื่นใด  การมองแสงสีและความเคลื่อนไหวของเมืองที่เพิ่งรู้จักจากมุมสูงเป็นกฎเกณฑ์ส่วนตัวที่มักจะทำเสมอเมื่อไปต่างถิ่น

 

                ทางหนึ่ง ดูเมืองในมุมกว้าง อีกทางหนึ่ง ทำเพื่อกระตุ้นเตือนตัวเองว่า แผ่นดินกว้างใหญ่นักตัวเราก็เท่านี้ มีเวลา มีโอกาสแล้วต้องเก็บเกี่ยว หวงแหนเวลาให้เต็มที่…

 

                มองเห็นรอบๆโรงแรมที่พักเป็นร้านรวงที่เปิดไฟประดับ ป้ายโฆษณาขายสินค้าดาษดื่น ตรงกับที่ไกด์สาวบอกว่า ย่านนี้เป็นแหล่งชอปปิ้งที่มีร้านรวงนับๆร้อยให้เดินกันเมื่อย

 

                ผมไม่ค่อยสนใจนัก เพราะไม่ใช่นักชอป แต่ที่สนใจของผมคือผู้คนมากกว่า ชีวิตในยามราตรีที่นี่เป็นอย่างไร คือเป้าหมายของคืนนี้

 

              หลังจากเข้าร้านนั้น ออกร้านนี้  เดินดูร้านค้า สินค้า ซึ่งทำให้รู้สึกเหมือนเดินเล่นในย่านบางลำพู และ สยามสแควร์ในบางมุม ผม เพื่อนตัวขาว และคณะ เรามาพักสายตาจากการดูเสื้อผ้าข้าวของเครื่องใช้มาที่สวนสาธารณะแห่งหนึ่ง

 

              ที่นี่ไม่ใกล้จากโรงแรมนัก มองจากหน้าต่างห้องก่อนนี้เห็นเป็นสวนที่ไม่เล็กนักแต่อาจเพราะผู้คนที่คลาคล่ำทำให้สวนดูเล็ก ผู้ใหญ่ หนุ่มสาว ไปจนถึงเด็กตัวเล็กๆ กำลังสนุกสนานกับการทำกิจกรรมร่วมกันบนลานกว้าง…บ้างเล่นเครื่องเล่น บ้างจับกลุ่มคุยกัน บ้างนั่งดูงิ้ว บรรยากาศเต็มไปด้วยความสนุกสนาน และ  มีความสุขท่ามกลางอากาศที่หนาวพอๆดี  คล้ายๆเป็นลานคนเมืองที่ถูกออกแบบมาเพื่อเป็นที่พักผ่อนหย่อนใจของคนเมืองนี้

 

               “น่าอิจฉาคนเมืองนี้นะ คนกรุงเทพคงยากจะหาสถานที่และโอกาสที่จะทำอย่างนี้”  พี่ร่วมคณะเปิดประเด็นกับผมซึ่งผมก็คิดคล้ายๆกัน  แต่คงทำได้ไม่เท่านี้ส่วนหนึ่งเพราะบ้านเราอากาศร้อนการออกนอกบ้าน ตีตัวออกห่างพัดลม หรือ ผละหนีจากห้องแอร์มันเป็นเรื่องที่ทำใจลำบากยิ่ง

 

               ผมซึมซับกับบรรยากาศยามราตรีของเมืองฉวนโจวอยู่โดยพอประมาณ  ธรรมดาของคนแรกรู้จักย่อมไม่มีคำพูดใดๆมากกว่าปล่อยสายตาและความคิดคำนึงทำงานไป…

 

                                          —**—

 

                       

              

              ไฟในห้องสลัวๆ…

 

               ผมกลับเข้าห้องพักก็เป็นเวลาดึกพอสมควรพักผ่อน นอนหลับแต่ผมเลือกที่จะนั่งคิดอะไรเรื่อยเปื่อย

 

              ราตรีนี้ผมยังมีเรื่องต้องเขียนบันทึกในสิ่งที่พบเห็นและได้ฟังบนรถ…ผมค่อยๆรีด ทบทวนความจำที่อาจจะตกหล่นออกมา

 

             ผมจับปากกาลากตัวหนังสือไปเรื่อยๆจนมาถึงช่วงสุดท้ายที่ต้องย้ำเตือนการนัดพบในวันรุ่งขึ้น

 

              “ก่อนจากกันคืนนี้   พรุ่งนี้เจอกัน 6-7-8 นะคะ มอร์นิ่งคอล 6โมงเช้า ทานอาหาร 7 โมง ล้อหมุน 8 โมง นะทุกท่าน…” ศิริวรรณ ย้ำ

 

              “อ้อ..แล้วก็อย่าลืม ค่ำคืนนื้ทุกท่างอาจจะมีทอระสับขึ้นไปหา ก็ไม่ต้องแปลกใจ ถ้าเป็นผู้หญิงรับสาย เค้าก็จะรีบวางสายเลย แต่ถ้าเป็นอาเฮียรับ นั่นละเตรียมคำตอบให้เธอดีๆจำได้หรือปล่าว เหย้า ปู๋เหย้า ไม่ใช่ เยี่ยว ไม่เยี่ยว นะ55555”

 

              นั่นเป็นมุกของไกด์สาว ‘มุก’ เยอะ ยิงซ้ำอีกเพื่อเน้นกำหนดนัดแก่ลูกทัวร์ในความดูแลของเธอ  และ ก็เป็นบรรทัดสุดท้ายเช่นกันที่ผมจะจบบันทึกของตัวเองในค่ำคืนนี้

 

              ปากกาเพิ่งถูกวาง สมุดบันทึกปิดลง  คนยืนลุกขึ้นจากเก้าอี้ บิดขี้เกียจคราหนึ่ง…

 

              เสียงหนึ่งก็ดังขึ้นมาจากโต๊ะหัวเตียงทำลายความเงียบ!

 

              กริ๊งๆๆๆๆๆๆ!!!

  

7,980 Responses to “ซูฮก:ฮกเกี้ยน(5): ราตรีในเมืองโบราณ”

  1. xanax Says:

    ท่าทางโปรแกรมทัวร์นะแน่นเอียดเลย ใช่มั้ยคะปู่
    ต้องตื่นหกโมงเช้า

    เมย์ไม่ค่อยชอบทัวร์ก็เพราะงี้แหละ (เคยมีเพื่อนตั้งชื่อ “ทัวร์ล่กๆ” อิอิ

  2. showshow Says:

    สวัสดีครับหลานเมย์…6-7-8 นี่ปราณีแล้วนะ บางทีเจอ 5-6-7 อืมม์ แทบไปทั้งชุดนอน55555 ก็สบายๆครับพอดีปู่ตื่นเช้าอยู่แล้วไม่รู้สึกเท่าไหร่ หลังๆมาเวลาไปเที่ยวเองก็ติดนิสัยกำหนดเวลาเช้าๆอย่างนี้เสมอ บางทีเผื่อเวลาไว้ทำให้เราละเมียดละไมกับการท่องเที่ยวได้มากขึ้นครับ:)

  3. สกล Says:

    ผมยังจำฉวนโจวได้ดีเลยครับเคยอยู่ที่นั่นมาสามปี เป็นเมืองที่ดีมากไม่แออัดเกินไป มีทุกอย่างครบ ทั้งเรื่องกินและชอบปิ้ง เคยอยู่รรเดียวกับท่านshowshowด้วย ยังคิดถึงอยู่เลยครับเนี่ย ได้อ่านข้อความแล้วรู้สึกรำลึกดีจัง
    อย่าลืมแวะเที่ยววัดอิสลามนะครับ แล้วอย่าลืมซื้อชาด้วยนะครับ ที่นั่นมีชื่อเสียงมาก

  4. lady007 Says:

    ในที่สุด ลิ้นก็ได้ลิ้มรสแอลกอฮอล์
    ทำให้เจริญอาหารมากกว่าปกติ
    อีกทั้งออกจากภัตตาคาร
    มันยังละลายลมหนาวไปในฉับพลัน
    อีกหนึ่งฤทธิ์ คือ
    ถึงสาวฉวนโจว ผิวไม่ขาวนวลสวยเหมือนสาวเสฉวน
    กลับมีเสน่ห์น่าจับต้องในสายตา.. น้องชาย อิ อิ

  5. สกล Says:

    อ้อ เรื่องโทรศัพท์เนี่ยมันยังมีอยู่อีกเหรอครับเนี่ย เย้าปู้เย้าเสาเจ.. เป็นเรื่องขำขันอย่างนึงตอนเพื่อนๆมาเยี่ยมเลยนะนั่น

  6. showshow Says:

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